6--My Motor-Biking Expedition through Old Mughal Road - 6

CHAPTER-6 OF (15)

26th of July 2012, our today’s route is around Boulevard road of Srinagar, because today we are sightseeing only few of the Mughal Gardens.

Today the first thing after bathing, we did perform Pooja at Zeshta Devi temple and prayed for our safe motor biking, further journey. Then after the breakfast at Dal Gate, Bhusahan Parimoo took us ( Kiran Kinni, Ganesh, Krishna Hebbar, Abhimanyu and me)  to “Tourist Reception Center" building, where the director of Tourism, (Kashmir Division) Mr. Talat Parvez Rohella's, office is. Since Bushan Parimoo knows Mr. Talat Parvez Rohella, it was just a curtsy call.  Though Mr. Talat Parvez Rohella, was already busy with other of his prior planned meetings, still it was great of him to spare few minutes just to meet us. Because of his aggressive dynamic efforts the Kashmir tourism had increased tremendously. He is very courteous and humble gentle man and he assured us of any help we needed and wished us enjoyable safe journey too.

From the “Tourist Reception Center building”, we rode our motor bikes all along the Boulevard road. It was more than a dream come true feelings of ridding our majestic "Royal Enfield" motor bikes, on a wide flawless road, which on one side has endless rows of the most colourful, beautiful most attractive and decorated House Boats and Shikaras, of the Dal Lake. On the other side are the ranges of Peer Panchal snow clad, “Zabarwan-mountains”. Then from the front  cold fresh winds full of nature’s fragrances, gently brushed against our faces with its soothing feelings. At our back side, we left behind us the most scenic beauty of beautiful Kashmir. However hard I may try, I have neither the appropriate words, nor the proper vocabulary to express those blissful and delightful ever lasting feelings. To thoroughly feel these blissful feelings, one has to be present there on the Boulevard, to feel what I am trying to convey you.

A Brief Introduction of Mughal Gardens of Kashmir

Impressed with the abundant natural beauty, Mughals loved this place so much that they have contributed many beautiful gardens to the city of Srinagar. Well-planned and vast, these gardens are home to a variety of flora and delightful water systems. They retain something of the elaborately planned Persian gardens and are mostly terraced to suit the environs of the mountainous slopes.

Gar Firdaus  rōy-e  zamin ast,

hamin ast--o hamin ast--o hamin ast.

This  is a couplet  by  the Persian   poet 

“Amir  Khusrau”, which   is  inscribed   in Persian on the black pavilion  built  during  the  early  part of  Jahangir's  reign (1569–1627), in  the  top terrace of  the Shalimar Bagh. .

Translated  to English,  it  means.

‘If  there  is  a  paradise  on  earth,  it  is  here,  it  is here, it  is  here.”

It  is  also  mentioned  that  when  Jahangir  was  asked on  his  death bed  about  his cherished desire, he is credited to have said:

Kashmir,  the  rest  is  worthless.

“As per my eldest brother Mr. Moti Lal Parimoo, who now resides in Fremont, California, (USA), that definitely the famous poet “Amir Khusrau” had not visited Switzerland. If he had, he would have never ever said that Kashmir is the most beautiful place on this earth”

The basic architectural layouts of almost all the Mughal Gardens are the proportionate geometrical designs, those have terraced lawns, cascading fountains, bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal-Lake in front of them.

The three famous Mughal Gardens of Srinagar, Kashmir are Chashma shahi ("The royal spring"), Nishat Bagh ("abode of peace") and Shalimar Bagh ("abode of love"), where Mughal emperors once relaxed with their exquisite queens. These are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places of tourism, picnics and excursions.

Today since we were travelling from Dal Gate side, so as per our “Veteran Guide Cum Navigator” Bushan Parimoo’s suggestion, the very first place that we visited was Pari Mahal.

With high enthusiasm and soaring high spirits, to reach Pari Mahal from the “Tourist Reception Center building” we cruised and glided our motor bikes through Dal Gate,  Nehru Park,  Maharaja Hari Sigh’s palace, then took a right turn that goes steep up through Governor’s Residence, Chashma Shahi, “Rupa Bhawani”, Sahibi-Devi temple. And then rode till the end of the zig- zag road that passed steep up through the dense pine forest, where Pari Mahal is situated. The distance from Tourist center to Pari Mahal is approximately about 6 to 7 Km. 

Since during this month of July and August every year there are lakhs of pilgrims who tour Kashmir after coming back from Amarnath Yatara. So  during these month, in and around Srinagar anywhere we go, it’s full of tourists. There were so many tourist vehicles parked that to park our motor bikes we had to literally squeeze through the parking lot to make place for our bikes parking. To enter Pari Mahal, we had to pay for the entry tickets as well as for parking of our bikes.

I still have the everlasting childhood memories that when we were small children, to make us sleep, our grandparents would tell us fairy tale stories, at night how the fairies from the fairy land came gliding to Pari Mahal, dressed in the most attractive, colourful, soft silk robes. As per our grandparents stories, at Pari Mahal Fairies would singh, they would dance, they would laugh, they played and enjoyed the beauty of Dal Lake and its breath taking beautiful surroundings. I believe that those fairy Tales were told to our grandparents by their grandparents. So for local Kashmiri folk-lore’s, the Pari Mahal means nothing more than the abode of bed time fascinating fairy tale stories.  

And in case, even after listening the soothing stories of the fairy tales, if we wouldn't sleep then our grandparents would suddenly change their tones of vocal cords, and tell us horror stories how those fairies were attacked by demons, ghost and devils and scare us till we would shut our eyes tight and fall asleep immediately .

And the best part is that till today, I still remember those bed time fairy tales as well as the horror stories told my grandparents. And I still carry religiously that tradition of storytelling to make my daughters sleep (when they were young) and now to my granddaughters to make them sleep at night.

Earlier days when we were small children, to go to Pari Mahal we used to go walking through the thick forest from Zestha Devi temple. Those days it was surrounded by so thick forest that even during the day we would get scared of wild animal and those demons, ghost and the devils from our grandparents stories. Mind you these are some of the most nostalgic treasured memories of our life time.

Pari Mahal in “Hindi Language” means “The Fairies' Abode” It  is a seven terraced garden located at the top of Zurbaran mountain range over-looking city of Srinagar and south-west of Dal-Lake. The architecture depicts an example of Islamic architecture and patronage of art during the reign of the then Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. It is about ten-minute drive from Chashma Shahi, Srinagar.

History

The gardens were established by Prince Dara Shikoh in the mid-1600s on the ruins of a Buddhist monastery. Dara, the son of Emperor Shah Jahan, followed the Qadiri order of Suffi Islam and made the garden for his tutor; it was further used as an observatory, useful for teaching astrology and astronomy. This ancient monument retains a dream-like quality, illuminated at nights and placed on the very edge of a mountain casting its reflection in the waters of the Dal Lake with a well-laid spacious garden in front.

From the top terrace of Pari Mahal we have the most amazing view of whole surroundings of Shankara Acharya temple, Dal Lake, Nehru Park, Char Chinar Island, Chashma Shahi, Governor’s Residence, and the view of Hazratbal Mosque. And parts of old broken and partly submerged road that still has a visible remains of a broken and damaged small bridge made of bricks,  called in Kashmiri language as “Oount Kadal” that means “Camel Hump”. Once upon a time this small road was a cycling road that connected Nishat Bagh and Rainawari area.

While at Pari Mahal, since it was almost the evening time. The evening breeze was so soothing that we spent couple of hours, studding the Mughal Architecture and enjoying the surrounding scenic beauty. It felt so good that as if we were sailing on cloud-9

The second place that we visited was “Rupa Bhawani Temple

While driving down from Pari Mahal towards Shesma sahih, on the left side of the road, just a little before the Chashma Shahi, we entered the one of the most pious Kashmiri Hindu saint’s temple called as “Rupa Bhawani” temple. The entrance of the temple is nothing like any prominent temples, it’s just an ordinary two planked door, like any of the ordinary house. Any one may think that it’s an entrance to a house rather than to a temple. So to locate the temple, we have to be attentively searching for the temple location. Anyone can easily miss it, if not paid concentrated attention.

Other than the temple, there exists tow rooms structure with an outside toilet facility that is constructed away from the rooms. Other than the “Poojari” there are always two CRPF jawans at guard, for the security purposes.

Through the middle of the temple compound runs, sweet fresh water of the spring and the temple compound is surrounded by small sweet apricots wild trees. It’s a very nice place to sit peacefully and relax.

Rupa Bhawani

"Mother Sharika assumed human form for her devotees"

RUPA BHAWANI (Samvat 1681-1771), daughter of Pandit Madho Joo Dhar of Khanqahi Sokhta (Safa Kadal), Srinagar, shines as a bright star in the galaxy of mystic saints and sufis who have adorned the firmament of the Reshiwari (Kashmir). Rupa Bhawani's descendants, from her paternal side, called Sahibi Dhars, have carried her message and memory forward. They have been observing her nirvaan ceremony with great piety and devotion to this day both at Safa Kadal, the place where she was born and also attained nirvaan, and at Waskura in Baramulla district which the graced for many years after the initial tapasya at Khanqahi Sokhta, Wusan near Ganderbal, Manigam in the same area, and Chashma-i-Sahibi, adjacent to the renowned Chashma-i-Shahi on Zabarwan hills in Srinagar district.

The Legend

Legend, both oral and recorded, has it that Pandit Madho Joo Dhar, himself a devout Devi-Bhakta, performed Parikarma of Hari Parbat regularly for years, come summer come winter, praying to the Mother to fulfill his aspirations. The Mata, pleased with his devotion, appeared to him one day saying "speak out your wish". Madho Joo, prostrated himself at the Mata's feet, imploring," Great Mother, Creator of the entire Universe; you are so kind to me, I wish you are born as my daughter". The wish as granted, and Rupa Bhawani graced Madho Joo Dhar’s home on Zaishta Pooranmashi in Samvat 1681.

Brought up with affection, and respect, Rupa Bhawani was married to a learned young man, Pandit Hiranand Sapru, at an early age with great pomp and show. Roopa Bhawani was, however forced to forsake Grihast as her in-laws, including Pandit Hiranand, could not reconcile to her spiritual bent of mind and the meditative spells she had got used to at her father's abode.

The First Miracle

Her estrangement with the in-laws accentuated after a miracle which her mother-in-law failed to comprehend. It is recorded that at a special yagnya performed at the Sapru's place, the kulguru of Dhar's could somehow not give a satisfactory account of his capabilities. Not that he was not learned, but the other Brahmins present made fun of him. He could not put up with this. Feeling humiliated, he wanted to leave unnoticed without partaking of the prashad. And that is why and how the Mata's first miracle took place. While the kulguru was trying to get away, he was accosted by Rupa Bhawani. She requested him not to go away like that. "It is not appropriate to go away without taking food" she told him adding "you, Sir, seem to be very tired. Why don't you have a bath in the river (Vitasta) and feel fresh and then take food?" The kulguru could not refuse. He had the bath as advised, and while coming back he was accosted againg by Rupa Bhawani. She gave him a full glance, welcoming him to the dinner. This glance transformed the Brahmin into a well-versed and confident guru. Bowing to the Bhawani, he partook of the food, and after that recited a full poem in praise of the Mother spontaneously, winning applause from one and all, including those who had tried to humiliate him only a few hours earlier.

This miracle of the Bhawani invited strong reaction. Her mother-in-law got infuriated, she provoked her son and made it impossible for Rupa Bhawani to live in her house. And this brought about the Sanyas of the Mata. She returned to her father's place, bared her heart to him. Consoled and encouraged by the father Rupa Bhawani started her meditation in right earnest. However, finding regular meditation somewhat difficult in a grahast, she shifted to Wusan, Manigam, Waskura, Chashma- i-Sahibi, etc. in that order, creating ashrams at every spot holding spiritual discourse, attracting devotees, Hindus and Muslims alike, and performing miracles. A real sanyasin, she was the mother to all irrespective of caste or creed.

The great old chinar tree on the bank of Sindh river in Manigam, the culmination of a half-burnt branch planted by the Mata with her blessing hands was, till some year back, standing as a mute but living witness to her spirituality. A devastating fire in Manigam was extinguished by her through a mere glance. Fish cooked for Shivaratri in the house of Pandit Lal Chand in Manigam started crawling over to the wall when it was learnt that the fish had been cooked in spite of her presence in the house. A potter's son got his eyesight back on completing the digging of a well at Waskura at her bidding. A shankh-shaped spring in Chashma-i-Sahibi appeared in the Zabarwan hill area when Rupa Bhawani shifted there, giving the hillock its name.

Mata Rupa Bhawani attained mahanirvaan at her father's place, where she spent her last days. It was the Saptami of Magha Krishna Pakshya in Samvat 1777. The day is since known as Sahib Saptami, observed by all the Hindus in Kashmir.

Mahanirvaan

On hearing that the Mata had breathed her last, Muslims of the locality demanded her burial according to Muslim rites as she was to them the Rupa Aarifa, a Muslim divine. They sought and obtained orders of the then Moghul Governor of Kashmir, and also any assistance to force the issue on the Mata's kith and kin and the large number of the Hindu devotees. Perturbed, her brother Pandit Sansar Chand Dhar prostrated himself at the feet of her mortal remains, requesting her to intervene "to save me from embarrassment which would forever stick to the clan as a black spot". Lo and Behold, the Bhawani resurrected herself, and addressed all those present, including Muslims. To her brother, she said "stand firm by what you want to do and God will help you. Offer some bread and shirni (sugar balls used in Kashmir on important occasions) to the Muslim brethren and bid them good-bye."

Sansar Chand and others did as they were told. Completing all the rituals, the body was taken to the cremation ground on the usual wooden plank bedecked to suit the occasion. But when the time came to place the body on the funeral pyre, it was only the shroud and a few flowers. Rupa Bhawani had merged with the Supreme,  Mother Sharika.

The third  place that we visited was  Cheshma sahai

To enter Chashma Shahi, every one has to buy entry tickets plus pay for parking of private vehicles.

Chashma Shahi in Urdu translation means “the royal spring”, is one of the Mughal gardens and was built around a digestive and fresh water spring by Ali -Mardan, a governor of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1632. The garden is located in the Zabarwan Range, near Rajbhawan (Governor‘s house) overlooking Dal Lake.

History

The Chashma Shahi originally derives its name from the spring which was discovered by the great female saint of Kashmir, “Rupa Bhawani”, who was from the Sahib clan of Kashmiri Pandits. The family name of Rupa Bhawani was 'Sahib' and the spring was originally called 'Chashme Sahibi'. Over the years the name got corrupted and today the place is known as Chashma Shahi (the Royal Spring).

The garden was constructed around the spring by the Mughal Governor Ali Mardan Khan in 1632. It was commissioned by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his eldest son, Dara Sikoh. In the east of Chashm-i-Shahi the Pari Mahal (Fairy Palace) lies where Dara Sikoh used to learn astrology and where he was later killed by his brother Aurengzeb. The garden is 108 m long and 38 m wide and is spread over one acre of land. It is the smallest garden among the three Mughal gardens of Srinagar; the Shalimar garden is the largest and the Nishat garden is the second largest. All the three gardens were built at the left bank of the Dal Lake , with Zabarwan mountains at the backdrop.

Architecture and spring

The garden presents Mughal architecture as used in different Mughal gardens. The artistically build garden has Iranian influence in its art and architecture and the design is based on the Persian gardens. It is built around a fresh water spring, discovered by Rupa Bhawani, which flows through its center in terraces. The topography and the steepness of the land has led the formation of the garden. The main focus of the garden is the spring which flows down in terraces and is divided into three sections: an aqueduct, waterfall, and fountains. A two-storied Kashmiri hut stands at the first terrace which is the origin of the spring. The water then flows down through a water ramp (chadar) into the second terrace. The second terrace serves as a water pool and a large fountain stands at its center. The water again flows down through a water ramp into the third terrace, which is a square five-fountain pool. It is the lowest pool at the entrance of the garden. The visitors are received through a flight of stairs on both sides of the terraces which leads up to the origin of the spring. The English writer and traveler Aldous Huxley wrote about the garden that "the little Chashma Shahi is architecturally the most charming of the gardens near Srinagar". The water of the spring is believed to have some medicinal properties. The former Premier of India, Jawahar Lal Nehru and later prime minister, his daughter Mrs. Indira Gandhi, used to get daily quota of the spring water flown to Delhi

Fourth place that we visited was Indragandhi Gardent of Tulips

The season stars from March end to middle of April. The full bloom of the colourful Tulip is short lived. But in July, by the time we went there, there were no Tulip blooms at all.

Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip garden previously named as Model Floriculture Centre, Sirajbagh, Cheshmashahi, is the largest Tulip garden of Asia spread over an area of about 12 hectares. It is situated on the foothills of Zabarwan Hills with an overview of picturesque world famous Dal Lake.

Nearly 20 lakh Tulips adorn and add color to 20 acres of the Kashmiri Landscape at 5600 feet altitude in Asia’s largest Tulip Garden - the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden. A delightful sight - the Flower bed sprawls all over the foothills of the towering Zabarwan Mountain Range, and overlooks the beautiful and the world famous Dal Lake in Srinagar. The Tulip Garden is surrounded on three sides by the Nishat Bagh, Dal  Lake and Cheshme shahi Mughal Gardens of Srinagar.

Chapter-5, Mughal Road link 

Chapter-7, Mughal Road link

4--My Motor-Biking Expedition through Old Mughal Road - 4

Chapter—4 (of 15)

Our today’s traveling route is Yusmarg----Darwan---Charar-i-Sharif---Nowgam---Chadoora--- Rambag--- Lal-chook---Dal-gate---Boulevard Road----- Zesta-devi temple complex (at Boulevardier  road), where @ Srinagar city, we camped till we stayed in srinagar.

Since we knew that the distance in between Yousmarg and Srinagar city is only 45 Km. So, we got up leisurely, took our own sweet time to freshen up, repacked our baggage, got the bikes ready and then finally tied our baggage to our motor bikes. Because of the lack of tourism departments interest  no breakfast was  available at the tourism department’s huts. So, after settling our cottages rental bills, we rode to a nearby road side tea stall named as "Khanna Kazaana". Though the name is big as "Khanna Kazaana", but it had nothing other than the  basic breakfast of tea and biscuits and nothing else. After having our basic breakfast, from there we rode our motor bikes towards our onward journey to Srinagar city. Actually today’s journey was practically just ridding, ridding and nothing other than just ridding. Because, all along this route till Srinagar, there are no tourist places to visit, except a very prominent  and famous “CHARAR-I-SHARIF” a Muslim shrine.

Charar-i-sharif counts amongst the most sacrosanct Muslim shrines in India. It is situated approximately 40 km from Srinagar, enroute to Yusmarg. An intricately artistically carved Wallnut  wooden shrine, the Charar-i-sharif is approximately 600 years old. Popularly known as the Hazrat Sheikh Noor-ud-Din Wali, the shrine was built to commemorate Sheikh Noor-ud-Din Noorani, a Sufi saint. The life of the Sheikh is full of legends and tales. He was born as Nund Reshi or Sahazanand to Salar Sanz in 1377. It is said that he refused to drink milk till the third day after his birth, when a Yogini ( Hindu female saint), “Lal Ded” fed him with her own milk. Later, she left the house after saying that the child would be her spiritual heir.

Sheikh Noor-ud-Din Noorani or Nund Rishi was the first one to start Rishism in the valley. Later, this Rishism got renowned as Rishi Mat, a Vishnav Mat. The saint preached communal harmony, non-violence, vegetarianism and tolerance to the people. He gathered many followers who called him by different names. Some of the names conferred on the saint are Sheikh-ul-Alam, Sheikh Noor-ud-Din Noorani, Alamdar-e-kashmir, Sarkhel-e-Rishiya, etc. Apart from preaching, the Sheikh made numerous contributions in the field of philosophy also, in the form of verses and poetry.

The saint led a very simple life throughout. It is said that nine lakh people gathered at the Shrine of Charar within two days of his death, in 1438. The King Sultan Zainul Abdin also took part in his funeral procession. Charar e Sharif served as his final resting place, where his mortal remains were buried.

The Charar-e-sharief of Kashmir, India, has been destroyed twice. The first time, the shrine and its surroundings suffered ruination was when a battle took place between the Indian Army and the Pakistani Army. However, the shrine was reconstructed on the lines of central Asian architecture.

But, again in 1995 many Islamic militants along with the most wanted terrorist MASTGUL, who had taken refuge in to this mosque. They stayed in to the premises of this shrine for quite some months and carried out their heinous terrorism activities in the Kashmir valley from this shrine. Then finally as they were surrounded by the Indian armed forces, the terrorists to escape used the tactics of causing confusion by destroying a major part of the shrine in a fire. I believe the setting of fire was just a gimmick. In fact as a preagreed truce, Indian government gave “MASTGUL and company” a safe passage to run back to Pakistan. Still, after all the assaults the shrine continues to be revered and respected by both the Hindus as well as Muslims

Since because of the Muslim fasting month no lunch was available we just rode straight (via Baadgam, Rawalpura, Rambagh, Lal-choke, residency road, Dal-Gate, Boulevard Road) for nearly two hours and reached our final destination (Zeshta Devi Temple complex) where we had booked rooms for our stay till we would be in Srinagar.

 As soon as we rode our motor bikes on Boulevard, there was something very  special in Dal Lake air, which rejuvenated OUR ALL THE FIVE-SENSES.

First Sense, the “SIGHT” :----We saw the most spellbound and awestruck serene view of the most magnificent Dal-Lake. Every inch of which is occupied by the endless rows of the most attractive, luxurious, ornamental, deluxe, lavish, lush and exclusively decorative House Boats. Colourful, decorative and luxuriously cushioned “Shikara” taxis those keep sailing while carrying hordes of Tourists. In-between we could see the rowing of “mobile-Shikara shops”, selling Kashmiri handicrafts, Kashmiri artifacts, Kashmiri Shawls, Papier-mâché work items, wooden carvings, cold drinks, eatables, roasted corns and whatever any tourist wish to purchase. And there were many ordinary small boats called in Kashmiri Language as “NAV” which were busy pulling by hands the weeds which have polluted almost all the lakes of Kashmir. These NAV-Walas, are paid daily wages to do the deweeding of Dal Lake. Though there a huge machines also which are used for deweeding, but just to provide employments to youths, government hires these unemployed man force to give them employment.

Second Sense, the “SMELL”:--The moment we rode our motor bikes on the the Boulevard, which runs in a semi-circle all around the edge of the Dal Lake, we could breathe in fresh, crisp air which blew straight on our faces, right from the snow clad Pir Panja mountain ranges. The fresh cool breeze was coming from opposite direction which was directly but gently hitting against our faces that we relished it so much, it felt as if it was dream come true event. We heavily inhaled pollution free breeze which filled our lungs with pure oxygen and we could inhale waves and whiffs of the fragrance of the Mughal Gardens variety of fragrance of varieties of flowers. Just to clear our pollution congested lungs, we inhaled our lungs to the fullest. In the bargain that with so much pure oxygen inhaling, we started coughing endlessly, because our lungs are used to only polluted urban air. So our lungs couldn't digest fresh pollution free air.

Third Sense, the “TASTE”:--- Drinking the Sheshma-Shai’s, nectar like fresh, sweet digestive, natural spring water, tasted like “Abe Zam Zam”, the divine water. It stimulated our taste buds and we felt as if we were drinking pure honey mixed sweet water that cleansed our mind body and soul. Even we ate tasty ripe, sweet, delicious varieties of fruits such as cherries, apples, pears, apricots, pomegranates, wall-nuts and almonds. These fruits are delightfully mouth savoring. 

Fourth Sense, the “TOUCH”:--Touching the sanctum sanatorium of few of the temples of Kashmir, like Shankara Acharya, Kheer-Bhawani,  Hari-Parbhat,  Durga-Nag and Zestha Devi temple made us feel divine and blessed. The touch was awesomely blissful, peaceful and heavenly. 

Fifth Sense, the “HEARING”:---. Hearing the soothing sounds of flowing waters of Lidder valley, Sindh River and the River Jehlum was delightfully serine. Then it was more meditating and as if in a Trans where we could distantly and faintly hear the musical whispers of laughing, dancing, playing and fluttering Fairies of the “Pari-Mahal”. All around us, we could faintly hear the melodies of soothing, serene natures, which were soothing, relaxing, calming, peaceful and meditating that we completely forgot all about the back breaking, stressful, tense and the the hectic urban life 

The Legend of Zeshta Devi

Zeshta's origin relates to an important event which took place during the churning of great ocean kshirasagra. Devtas and Asuras bothj desirous of attaining morality were yearning for getting the nectar from Ksirasagara. At the same time they were conscious that this nectar would become available to them only if Lord Shiva, who is holder and controller of Ksirasagara, permitted them to churn it. So both the parties, with great reverence, adored, the Lord. Pleased with their adoration and devotion, Lord Siva gifted condition that whatever substance came out there from would be shared by both Devtas and Asuras equally. 

Unaware of the nature of the substance that would come out after churning of the ocean, they gladly accepted the condition.

Having possessed Ksirasagara, no doubt, for a specific purpose of getting nectar, both the parties were puzzled, as they had no idea about the methodology that was to be used for its churning. So disappointed they again approached Lord Siva for bestowing them with divine power which would make churning of the ocean possible. Lord Siva, the bestower of boons, gave them one more boon by revealing to approach:--

i) Mandara Parvata, ( the biggest mountain that alone could be used as a churner for ksirasagra).

ii) Lord Narayana, for taking incarnation of Kurmadevta, a giant tortoise. He alone can hold this great mountain on his back and

iii) Vasukinagaa for offering his body to be used as a rope around Mandara Parvata, that alone has the power to make the Parvata the churner of Ksirasagra.

Feeling delighted and getting the help of Mandara parvata, Narayana and Vasukinaga, the Devtas and Asuras started the process of churning. Although initially they got fourteen gems of which one gem was in the form of Goddess Lakshmi but suddenly it started evaporating poison in the form of Kalakuta or Halahala-- the terrible poison having its lethal effect to destroy whole universe instantaneously. The Devas who were given the control over thirteen gems, too were frightened about Kalakuta. Being of a very virulent character, the moment it appeared after churning, it started engulfing everything and burn it up. It was beyond their power to control it. They were desperate and adored Lord Shiva to come to their rescue. The Lord, who is Trilokinatha, protector of the Universe, was pleased and bestowed his Anugraha to his creation by consuming the poison. But in order to protect Parvati (Lord Siva's energyies), he stored it in his throat. That is the reason why Lord Siva's throat is bluish in appearance. The Devas and Asuras were delighted and they again adored Lord Siva by addressing him Nilkantha.

The Devas bestowed Goddess Lakshmi to Lord Visnu. This furiated the Asuras. In their anger they snatched her from Lord Vishnu and kept her in captivity in a cave called "Guptagara" (now Gupkar). This action of Asuras gave rise to wrath of Lord Siva and with his divine force he created Goddess Zestha and Vira Vaitala with powers to annihilate all the Asuras and free goddess Lakshmi from their clutches. Upon accomplishment of the task, Lord Shiva by his grace bestowed both of them with the power of protection and upliftment of mankind. The abode of Mata Zyestha is at a stones throw from the place called "Gupkar" in the Srinagar city. All the devotees worshipping Goddess Zyestha are fully protected and receive Mother's grace uninterruptedly . It has been a tradition to offer 'cooked yellowish rice" (in kashmiri "tehar") on all thursdays during the month of Zyesth

The rooms in the Zestha Devi temple complexes have to be booked well in advance. There is a Zeshta devi temple website for the room bookings. Since there are only 20 to 25 rooms and almost all the Kashmiri Pandits from all over the world,who throng Srinagar during summer, can’t just walk in and get a room. Since the rooms are limited, so online booking is a must. Though online we had booked our rooms well in advance. But, when we went there we realised that we had reached, one one day earlier than our actual booking date. So for a day we compromised and we agreed to stay in the dormitory itself. Dormitories can accommodate round about 30 people and every one has to go out for washrooms and toilets.

The rooms have its full-fledged kitchen, with cooking gas, cooking vessels, Geezer, attached toilets, beds, wall to wall carpets, bedding for 5 to 6 occupants  And the charges are unimaginably so nominal.

There is a shop at the entrance of the temple, which serves you Kashmiri-Kahawa tea, Loochians, Pakoodas, Nathur-munzians, etc. He sells all the required stuff for your own cooking also.

The location of the temple is beautiful. On one side of the temple, there is Governor house, on the other side there are five star hotels Oberio and Laala Palce, at the back side of the temple there are Zabawan mountains and in the front of the temple there is a breath taking  panoramic view of Dal Lake. The temple is at an amazing location. The only problem is that to stay here you have to have your own vehicle, otherwise you are stranded and handicapped.  Vegetarian breakfast, lunch, dinners are available at very reasonable price. The sanctum sanatorium of the Devi looks a replica of "Kheer Bhavani" temple also called as "Tulmul".

Today once we settled ourselves in the dormitory, since we were tiered,  we just relaxed and didn't go out anywhere, other than at late night we went out just to have dinner.

We were here for five nights and we really enjoyed out stay. Because of the early morning Pooja at the temple, we enjoyed the devotional, soothing and peaceful surroundings and divine atmosphere.

MY NEXT BLOG CONTINUES 

WITH CHAPTER—5

Chapter-3, Mughal Road link

Chapter-5, Mughal Road link